I Keep This Crisp and Cool Spanish Salad in My Fridge All Summer Long

Pipirrana may be most associated with the Spanish city of Jaén, but for me, it will always remind me of the White Towns of Cádiz, where I first tried the sweet and juicy summer salad of diced tomatoes, bell peppers, and cucumbers.

During our honeymoon, my husband and I explored the province of Cádiz along the coast from Gibraltar to Sanlúcar de Barrameda. We ate in restaurants tucked into narrow, winding streets that were lined with the region’s characteristic whitewashed and clay tile-roofed buildings. Almost all of the lunch menus featured pipirrana, which cooled us down, renewing our courage for more walks in the relentless heat.

Because it’s so easy to make and the diced vegetables are robust enough to marinate in the refrigerator for a couple of days, it’s just as popular to make at home as it is in restaurants. In the summer when it’s too hot to cook and irresistible summer tomatoes call out whenever I see them, I always keep a big bowl of pipirrana in the fridge for an easy lunch or a dinner side. And I never forget a slice of crusty bread to soak up the vinaigrette and tomato juices.

What Is Pipirrana?

Pipirrana is a simple salad from southern Spain made of diced ripe summer tomatoes, bell peppers, and cucumbers tossed in a sherry vinaigrette. At the restaurants where we tried it, it was typically served as a refreshing first course or as a side dish to a second course of seafood, such as octopus or tuna.

Countless variations of pipirrana exist, such as mojete or piriñaca, depending not just on the region, but even down to the city. In Jaén, they make a dressing with boiled egg yolks, garlic, and stale bread thinned with olive oil and vinegar. In Murcia, they roast the tomatoes and peppers. And often, canned tuna and hard-boiled eggs make it a more substantial meal. But they all feature the three essentials: tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers.

Swaps and Additions

I rarely make this salad the same way twice and look to the countless versions of pipirrana as inspiration. I often add protein when I want to stretch the salad into a light lunch. Here are some of my favorite swaps and additions:

• Add quartered boiled eggs. I especially like it with just-set, jammier yolks.
• Add a can of tuna. If you use olive oil-packed tuna, you can use some of the oil in the vinaigrette.
• Substitute roasted red peppers for some or all of the bell peppers. I love the sweet and smoky flavor of traditional Spanish piquillo peppers.
• Toss in a handful of pitted black or green olives, torn in half.
• Mix in one small or half of a large diced red or white onion or even a large handful of chopped scallions.