For the Best Chicken Thighs, Start in a Cold Pan

My biggest weakness in the kitchen is my lack of patience. I’m able to practice this virtue in other aspects of my life (hello, motherhood!) but when I get into the zone while cooking, I tend to rush through tasks that deserve a little more self-restraint. Case in point, searing. It is essential if you want the most flavorful chicken, steaks, chops, and more. Searing caramelizes the outsides of the meat, creating a dark brown crust and upping the flavor big time. It also takes patience.

Perhaps it’s anxiety from being constantly observed during culinary school, but I poke and prod my chicken, beef, or fish to check how it looks, which is the worst possible thing you can do when you are looking to achieve a golden brown sear. I also tend to jack up the heat, anxious to complete the job at hand.

The right way to go about this task is to heat your pan over moderate heat, get your cooking oil sizzling, add your protein, and let it cook until it moves freely in the pan. In other words, let it tell you when it is ready to be flipped. While I know this process with every fiber of my being, I struggle with having to wait.

So when I found out that the real secret to perfectly crisp chicken skin went against every culinary rule I’ve ever been taught, I was quite honestly incredulous. It turns out that starting chicken thighs or other skin-on cuts of poultry in a cold pan is key to the best chicken you’ve ever tasted.

I won’t lie, it takes even more patience than a traditional sear, and at first, it will feel all wrong. If you can persevere, you will be rewarded with the most flavorful chicken ever.

Start Your Chicken in a Cold Pan

When using this method, I prefer boneless skin-on chicken thighs. I like to pound them with a meat mallet to thin them out slightly (pound the skinless side only), and ensure they cook evenly. I place them, skin-side down in a cold cast iron skillet and then set it over medium heat. I don't add any oil to the skillet.

Then, I take a deep breath and let the chicken do its thing. The fat from the skin will render over time, pooling around the chicken. After about 15 minutes, I can see that the skin is golden around the edges and I flip the chicken over and cook for about 5 minutes, or until it is cooked though.

The resulting chicken is moist and tender on the inside thanks to cooking in its own fat and shatteringly crisp on the skin side. Think chicken confit vibes, but better and easier.

Why This Trick Works

Starting the chicken in a cold pan allows the fat in the skin to render out slowly, which prevents it from burning. You don’t need any cooking oil, and by using the chicken’s own fat to cook, you will have maximum flavor without any greasiness or bits of rubbery chicken fat that haven’t been fully rendered. 

Once the fat is fully rendered, the skin will start to sear, giving you impossibly crisp chicken skin.

I wish this easy trick worked for all types of protein, but it’s best for skin-on cuts of poultry and fatty meats like bacon and pancetta. (Staring bacon in a cold pan will completely level up your brunch game—no pockets of flabby unappetizing fat in sight. )

Turns out, you are never too old to learn a new trick, or work on your patience!